Decoding The Ordinary’s Retinoids + Retinols

A lot of my friends and family have been asking me about cheap skincare products recently. Deciem’s The Ordinary line has been coming up a lot lately in conversation because of it’s low price, but nobody knows what any of it means. What’s do the percentages mean? What’s the difference between Retinoid and Retinol?

I’ve decided I’m going to have a series of decoding The Ordinary serums and treatments broken up into the sections they have on their website. I’ll be posting each product category so you guys feel confident in what you’re buying.

By the end you’ll know what they’re used for and if it’s right for your skin type, what the active ingredients target aka what the percentages mean, what to look out for, and when to use it (day or night).

This post is LONG, but DETAILED. If you want to skim through and find the product you’re interested in feel free. I’m hoping it’s not too overwhelming.

All serums are 30mL, and most come with a dropper applicator, and should be applied after cleansing and toning, before moisturizer and ideally used at NIGHT because of your skin’s photosensitivity from the ingredients and it gives your skin time to repair overnight.

Retinoids and Retinols can be used for anti-aging, acne and blackhead prevention. Personally, I think everyone should have a little retinol in their routine for treatment and prevention of damaged or aging skin. The nice thing about The Ordinary products is how cheap they are, with some with the same active ingredients as very expensive skincare products.

As for the ingredients, keep in mind that the first 5 ingredients listed are the majority of the product, but for the sake on being well-informed I’ve explained all ingredients listed. Let’s start with retinoids.

Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane | $9.60 | Moderate Strength/No Irritation

LABEL: Highly Stable, Water-Free Solution of 0.2% Ester of All-Trans Retinoic Acid.

INGREDIENTS: Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.

MEANING: First off 2% doesn’t mean 2% it means 0.2%, same with all the other % levels. The label is telling you that the oil is stable meaning it’s basically not going to go bad or change it’s chemistry over time or on your face. It’s water free because if you add water and oil together what happens..? It break up. So a water-free solution means it’ll stay together. All-Trans Retinoic Acid is made from vitamin A in the body which cells grow. It’s also referred to as retinoic acid, tretinoin, and vitamin A acid.

• Squalane (with an a) –  Squalane is different from Squalene first off. Squalene is already in our skin protecting this outer layer of our skin from releasing hydration. We tend to lose it in our 30s, resulting in dry skin. It’s also found in shark livers to regulates oxygen in the body, as well as common oils like olive oil, and palm oil as a polyunsaturated fat. Squalene is kind of the same as squalene, but much more stable. Squalane is great for dry or dehydrated skin without being too heavy so it’s great for all skin types. Squalene locks in hydration in the skin.
• C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate – A smoothing agent used to help the oils from feeling too greasy in multiple personal care products. There’s so much back and forth on this ingredients, but it’s said to be safe.
• Bisabolol – Basically an essential oil made from German chamomile that helps fight bad bacteria, stimulates your skin’s healing, and is anti-inflammatory.

  It’s also been found to be helpful with mild eczema.

• Dimethyl Isosorbide – Helps the skin penetrate and absorb the other ingredients in the product, used in a lot of skincare products.
• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid) – A newish retinoid in skincare that binds directly to the retinoid receptors in our skin without needing a conversion like other retinoids. Plus, it’s supposed to have very low irritation with this method.
• Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract – Lycopene which is naturally found in tomatoes is high in antioxidants and great for fighting cancer and fighting photo-aging. It also helps clear and tighten the skin with it’s acidity.
• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil – Pressed into an oil, but is actually a liquid wax, which is why is holds moisture so well. It mimics the skin’s natural oil, great for all skin types as it balances your skin and helps with irritation from it’s anti-inflammatory properties.

TAKEAWAY: According to the website this formula should have no irritation, so it’s probably a great option if you’re just starting out with The Ordinary’s serums or have very sensitive skin. Also if you tend to have irritation towards multiple different sunscreens it might be an irritation to C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, look into the ingredient.

Make sure you’re putting stable oils into your skincare. Just like when you eat oils, you want to make sure the oils are good for your body. Even more so, you want to make sure the oils you are putting on your face are stable – meaning that they don’t change or oxidate when exposed to the sun. If your oils are unstable (but dermatologist approved) they should be used at night. This is a great started retinoid.

Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane | $13.90 | High Strength/No-to-Low Irritation

LABEL: Highly Stable, Water-Free Solution of 0.5% Ester of All-Trans Retinoic Acid.

INGREDIENTS: Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil.

MEANING/TAKEAWAY: Same as the Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane serum with all the same ingredients, just a higher concentration of retinoid. Higher strength with potential for more irritation, but the retinoid is known for low irritation so probably still safe for more sensitive skin types. Personally this would be my go-to.

Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion | $9.80 | Moderate Strength/Mild Irritation

LABEL: Previously Advanced Retinoid 2%

INGREDIENTS (woah): Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin.

MEANING: This has the same amount of retinoid as the 2% in squalane, but also has retinol in it. So it’s probably a little stronger than that, meaning a little more irritation. There seem to be a lot of moisturizing, conditioning ingredients.

• Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Cetyl Palmitate – Helps smooth and conditions the skin, some are also used as thickeners.
• Ethyl Linoleate – Also know as Linoleic Acid, which helps with dermatitis and wound healing.
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Coconut oil and glycerin used as a moisturizer.
• Dimethyl Isosorbide – Helps penetrate the skin, allows for absorption for other products.
• Bisabolol – Essential oil made from German chamomile that helps fight bad bacteria, stimulates your skin’s healing, and is anti-inflammatory.

  It’s also been found to be helpful with mild eczema.

• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid) – A newish retinoid in skincare that binds directly to the retinoid receptors in our skin without needing a conversion like other retinoids. Plus, it’s supposed to have very low irritation with this method.
• Retinol – It doesn’t say the amount of retinol in the product, but retinol is another type of retinoid used stimulate new skin cells.
• Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract – Helps relieve itching and burning by about 20% in a short amount of time and also contains antioxidants as a berry.
• Inulin Lauryl Carbamate – Emulsion stabilizer.
• Glyceryl Stearate – Naturally found in the body, used as a skin conditioner that also slows the loss of moisture from the skin. This is formed with glycerin and stearic acid.
• Ceteareth-12/Ceteareth-20 – There seems to be some safety concerns with these ingredients. They are used a emulsifiers and add more conditioning to the skin. They seem to be in a lot of popular brands which makes me think it’s okay, but also worrying.
• Cetearyl Alcohol – Texture enhancer and carrying agent for other ingredients. Even products labeled “alcohol free” can have this in this products under the FDA because it doesn’t work like regular alcohol. It’s helps condition and isn’t a problem for sensitive skin.
• Carrageenan, Xanthan gum, Acacia Senegal Gum – thickening agents and emulsifiers so the ingredients stay together and are creamier than other serums.
• Sucrose Laurate – Sugar and fatty acid used as an emulsifying agent to disperse the ingredients more evenly.
• Polysorbate 20 – Sugar alcohol that has another warning on it because it could have carcinogenic 1,4-dioxide (linked to skin allergies).
• Isoceteth-20 – Emulsifier, listed on some bad ingredients lists, but I couldn’t find specific cases of harm.
• Behentrimonium Chloride – Waxy conditioning agent usually in hair conditioners.
• Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA – Chelating agents uses as a preservative to prevent discoloration or contamination.
• Dehydroacetic Acid – Synthetic preservative and fungicide.
• Benzoic Acid – Preservative that prevents infection by bacteria
• Ethylhexylglycerin – Made with glycerin, it’s a deodorizer and skin conditioner commonly used in treating eczema.
• Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin – Preservative used around the world in water-based products.

TAKEAWAY: This has a lot more ingredients than the other granactive formulas including some ingredients that are controversial like carrageenan. Even though there are a lot of ingredients most of the time the first five are the most important. Linoleic Acid is commonly found in fatty acids in food, but should be used in moderation because too much isn’t good for you and it’s pretty much in everything we eat. If you have SUPER sensitive skin I’d opt for something else.

If you have oily skin and are worried about using the squalane than this might be a good option for you skin oily skin tends to be low in linoleum acid, but I’m still a little hesitant seeing that it’s not as stable as the other options due to linoleum acid oxidizing and the water in it. I’m assuming they changed the name because “advanced” retinoid probably made people think it was their best option. I’d just go with the other granactive formulas for less ingredients and use it in moderation for to not cause more oil production.

Retinol 0.2% in Squalane | $5.30 | Low Strenght/Moderate Irriation

LABEL: Highly-Stable, Water-Free Solution of 0.2% Pure Retinol

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT.

MEANING:

• Squalane – Protects outer layer of skin from losing moisture by locking it in.
• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Coconut oil and glycerin used as a moisturizer.
• Retinol – Naturally from Vitamin A which helps reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
• Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract – Lycopene which is naturally found in tomatoes is high in antioxidants and great for fighting cancer and fighting photo-aging. It also helps clear and tighten the skin with it’s acidity.
• Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil – Pressed liquid wax oil to hold in the moisture. It mimics the skin’s natural oil, and balances your skin and helps with irritation from it’s anti-inflammatory properties.
• BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene) – Chemical equivalent of BHA (salicylic acid) that doesn’t absorb too much into the skin. It’s questionable whether or not it’s completely safe.

TAKEAWAY: BHT seems kind of unnecessary. It’s basically a synthetic antioxidant, I don’t see why they didn’t just add another natural antioxidant like green tea or something. This option definitely doesn’t have as many chemical ingredients as the emulsion, but it has a low strength and moderate irritation so I’d definitely opt for a retinoid or go straight to the 0.5% option.

Retinol 0.5% in Squalane | $5.80 | Moderate Strength/High Irritation

LABEL: Highly-Stable, Water-Free Solution of 0.5% Pure Retinol

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT.

MEANING/TAKEAWAY: Same ingredients as the 0.2% retinol serum, I’d opt for the retinoids personally, but if you’re concerned about the squalane this is a good option for average strength.

Retinol 1% in Squalane | $6.70 | High Strength/Very High Irritation

LABEL: Highly-Stable, Water-Free Solution of 0.5% Pure Retinol

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, BHT.

MEANING/TAKEAWAY: Same ingredients as both the 0.2% and 0.5% options, with very high irritation is seems like there are much better options unless you don’t have sensitive skin at all or are used to high strength retinol.

I’ve learned through other products I’ve tried that the percentage of active ingredients don’t always translate easily. All brands are different and include different active ingredients. Overall you’ve got to know your skin, what irritates it, and try things out. Give a product at least 2 weeks to try out unless you have crazy irritation. It’s normal to break out with new products, that’s why you need to give your skin some time to adjust.

I’ve linked each product back to their website, but some of these can be found at Sephora so check it out there first so you can earn VIB points! Also, look out for the next part of this series. As I said above, I’ll be posting until I go through all The Ordinary products.

Did this help you out? Are you a little more confident in the terms retinol and retinoid? Let me know in the comments!